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In 1983, Delgado’s maternal grandfather—a supervisor in Cerro Colorado, the second-largest mine in the Riotinto complex—invited his four oldest grandchildren to see firsthand how five generations of relatives had earned a living.Delgado, who was nine, was the only one to accept the offer.But they’re also examining the nature of work, the rise of globalization, and the legacy of environmental contamination.THE BUS FROM HUELVA TO THE VILLAGE of Minas de Riotinto is driven by Delgado’s father, one of the few men in his family who didn’t work in the mines.
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He makes a beeline to a cardboard box sitting on a waist-high table. For 5,000 years, the metals dug from these mines have provided the wealth that sustained civilizations.
For the next two years, during school breaks, Delgado’s grandfather dressed him in boots, a helmet, and an adult miner’s uniform—he was a tall boy—and took him through the copper, gold, and silver mines.
“What my grandfather did with me was very common,” he says.
Inside is a gray plastic bag containing pieces of a Roman water wheel used during the first or second century A. Miners discovered the wooden wheel during World War I.
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Now, Delgado is preparing to analyze the fragments using radiocarbon and tree-ring dating.
The archaeologist opens the bag, thrusts his nose inside, and breathes deeply. The sulfur odor is not what I expected: a mixture of chocolate and licorice, sweet but not cloying.
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