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I live on Zamalek, the northern part of an island in the Nile that’s situated in central Cairo, and Sayyid has become my most reliable guide to the neighborhood.

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One door opens onto the building’s lobby, another leads to a small garden, and the third is solely for the use of the , or garbageman, who is named Sayyid Ahmed.A couple of times, he’s brought by other forms of Chinese sex medicine, and he shows up with drugs that have names like Virecta.Anything blue catches his eye—recently, he appeared with a half-finished foil pack of Aerius, which excited him until I went online and learned that it’s an allergy medication that happens to be the same color as Viagra.Usually, his clothes are several sizes too large, and his shoes flap like those of a clown, because he harvests them from the garbage of bigger men.

At my apartment, he produced a small red box decorated with gold calligraphy. This kind of thing isn’t good.” But talking about it seemed to make Sayyid happy. He had four million and forty-four dollars in his bank account.”The precision of this figure caught my attention, and I asked Sayyid how he knew.“Because it was on letters from the bank.”I made a mental note to be careful about what I threw away.I was instructed to pay him whatever I believed to be fair, and if I pleased I could pay him nothing at all. Traffic is bad, and trains get cancelled; during the summer, it’s not unusual to have five electricity blackouts in a single day.